Golfing on the island of the gods: Cyprus
The island in the eastern Mediterranean is attracting more and more golf tourists. But Cyprus also offers a lot of history and culture.
Early risers have an advantage. After the changeover to winter time, the sun sets on the “Island of the Gods” shortly after 5 pm. It sinks into the Mediterranean every evening in a kitschy beauty, photographed thousands of times. And not just at the famous rocks of Petratou Romiou. According to legend, this is where Aphrodite was born and where the Greek goddess of beauty and love emerged from the sea. This attracts thousands of tourists. It’s even busier here on full moon nights, when dozens of young couples swim around the rock. Those who circle it three times will be rewarded with eternal love, say the Cypriots. To this day, she is a kind of national goddess and is omnipresent, especially in the southwest of the island.
CARTS ONLY
Above the legendary rock, the extensive golf courses run through the sunburnt hilly landscape. Aphrodite Hills is the most famous and most expensive course on the island, and probably the most spectacular. Due to the sometimes very long distances between the holes, a cart is compulsory here and is included in the green fee of 143 euros in the high season.
There are 185 guests on the list today, explains the friendly starter and reminds us to “stick to the front flight”, there’s not much more we can do. Every eight minutes, he sends a group onto the course, which offers a beautiful view of the Mediterranean on two large, gently undulating plateaus. The eighth hole is particularly spectacular, with the deep blue of the water shining directly behind the green. However, the next luxury villa in the large resort is being built right next to it and could spoil the impressive view in the future. The second signature hole right in front of it is called “Unverbaubar”. After a long drive into a deep ravine, the players hit their ball over the abyss onto the small green. Although only 128 meters long from the yellow, the 7 on Aphrodite costs nerves and many balls. The red women’s tee would actually be on the other side of the gorge, but on the third attempt our Austrian teammate also manages the little adventure from blue. However, the dropping zone is very popular. However, a classic water hazard only comes into play again on the final hole of the course, which was built in 2002 and is a good 300 meters above sea level. The flag is directly behind the long lake on the right-hand side, and this “swallows” even more balls than the ravine on fairway 7.
TOO FEW CARTS
From Aphrodite Hills you can see the “neighboring club” Secret Valley from some places, which cleverly winds its way through the narrow valley. “Beware of Snakes” is written on various signs next to the water hazards, but here too the traces of the dry summer cannot be overlooked and the water levels are very low. Secret Valley Golf is only 5050 meters short from yellow, but due to the partly narrow fairways it is even a little more difficult than Aphrodite. Instead of the view of the sea, the gigantic reddish rocks dominate here. You can easily walk the course, but as most tourists prefer to travel by cart, there is a shortage of vehicles during our visit. “Next time, make sure you reserve a cart,” advises the nice woman at reception. This is just enough for an older model without a cool box. Thanks to various drinks vending machines and a nice halfway service, we are still well supplied with supplies on the round. Ordering drinks in the restaurant, on the other hand, is rather difficult. When I politely asked if she had forgotten, the waitress was visibly annoyed after a long day. The German scramble team has probably already celebrated their birdies extensively before us. Those who play straight out in Secret Valley will definitely be rewarded with a golfing experience of success. And we also had enough time for the kitschy, beautiful sunset.
MINTHIS IN CONVERSION
Precision instead of length is also required on Cyprus’ oldest golf course. The Minthis Golf Club was opened in 1994. Designer Donald Steel has carefully integrated the 18 holes into the historic landscape around the 12th century Minthis Monastery above the harbor town of Páfos. Many olive and fruit trees or grapevines line the hilly fairways at a good 550 meters above sea level. A lot is currently being built on and off the course, including suites, a spa and a new driving range. What remains is, among other things, the beautiful view of the Troodos mountain range and the spectacular island green on hole 14. Due to the current renovation, the course currently measures 5100 meters from the yellow, with par 69 for the men and 71 for the women.
SPORTING HIGHLIGHT ELÉA
Eléa Estate is located right next to Páfos Airport, but you won’t hear a thing about the planes on designer Sir Nick Faldo’s golf course. Built on a former carob tree plantation, the golfer’s first view is of an industrial plant, but soon an impressive backdrop opens up with the Mediterranean Sea and the old town of Páfos. The dark green paspalum grass of the fairways contrasts sharply with the weathered limestone that can be seen in many places. The tee boxes here are better maintained than many greens I have played. The sometimes brutally difficult bunkers defending the targets are also typical Nick Faldo. There are also large, tricky and, above all, very fast greens. Elea is certainly the sporting highlight on the golfer’s island, so you can take the one or other waiting time when teeing off “sportily”. During our visit, the game is particularly congested on the back nine. For example, because the flight in front of us dared to attack the green from over 240 meters, but the balls then stopped halfway… The two final holes, for example, are really crisp with a length of over 400 meters each (from yellow), and for the women the 17th is a (difficult) par 5. Despite some short par 3 holes, golf tourists are challenged in Eléa, from the foremost tees the course is a remarkable 5152 meters long. From the rearmost tee boxes, the distance is a monstrous 6775 meters. Fortunately, these are left to the professionals.
The large lake at the final hole in Aphrodite Golf. Center: Impressions of Secret Valley and Eléa. Among them: The island green of Minthis and the special atmosphere at Eléa Golf.
CYPRUS – FULL OF HISTORY
Cyprus – including its Turkish-occupied north – is steeped in history and blessed with a rich cultural heritage. As a tourist, you generally don’t notice the division, and for an excursion to the only course in the Turkish part (Korineum Golf), the more than two-and-a-half-hour drive from Páfos is too far for most guests.
But the past offers enough variety for a golf-free day, such as the various temples, theaters, churches, monasteries and castles. The port city itself was voted European Capital of Culture in 2017. In addition to the renovated old town, the main attractions are the royal tombs and the large archaeological park. The park is home to a huge area of treasures that archaeologists have unearthed during excavations over the last few decades – finds from early Christian, Frankish and, above all, Roman times. Catacombs, churches, baths, market square, theater and four villas paved with mosaics. The House of Dionysus stands out. It once had 40 rooms, and all the public areas around the atrium were fitted with elaborate mosaic floors. The fact that visitors can (re)admire some of these works of art today was a coincidence. It was not until 1962 that the farmer Hasip discovered the now world-famous Roman mosaics while plowing his land next to the old harbour.
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